نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی
نویسندگان
1 نویسنده مسئول، دانشجو ی دکتری پژوهش هنر، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه الزهرا، تهران
2 استادیار گروه طراحی صنعتی، دانشکده هنرهای کاربردی، دانشگاه هنر، تهران، ایران.
3 استادیار گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنرهای کاربردی، دانشگاه هنر، تهران، ایران
چکیده
از جمله عوامل مهم در تولید پوشاک، الگوسازی و نظام سایزبندی لباس است. لباس به مثابه یک اثر فرهنگی‌هنری باید تناسب لازم با بدن انسان را داشته باشد. الگوسازی بر اساس سایز بدن افراد اقدام مهمی در این زمینه است. سایزبندی کلی همواره نمی‌تواند پاسخگوی تمام افراد جامعه باشد، زیرا برخی افراد از لحاظ اندامی نامتناسب با استانداردهای جهانی هستند. بنابراین جمع‌آوری داده‌های ابعادی متناسب با آناتومی افراد جامعه و طراحی الگو برای اندام آنان می‌تواند به بهره‌وری بیشتر از پوشاک بومی کمک کند. با وجود اختلاف در ابعاد بدنی ایرانیان با دیگر کشورها، همچنان از داده‌های ابعادی آنان در ترسیم الگو استفاده می‌شود. هدف این پژوهش بررسی مغایرت‌های انداز‌ه‌ای موجود در شیوه‌های متداول سایزبندی لباس و ارائه راهکار است. پرسش آن است که جمع‌آوری اطلاعات آنتروپومتری افراد تا چه‌اندازه می‌تواند به بهبود شیوه سایزبندی پوشاک کمک کند؟ این تحقیق کاربردی است و به روش بررسی منابع کتابخانه‌ای و تحلیل داده‌های اندازه‌گیری‌شده حاصل از پژوهش میدانی انجام شده‌اســت، از این‌رو ماهیتی کمی-کیفی دارد. برای این‌منظور با استفاده از شیوه نمونه‌گیری تصادفی، ابعاد بدنی 1290 نفر از بانوان 20 تا 44 ساله اندازه‌گیری و سایز آن‌ها از 32 تا 58 دسته‌بندی شد. با بهره‌گیری از نرم‌افزار SPSS به تحلیل داده‌ها پرداخته‌شد. در نهایت اندازه‌های دسته‌بندی شده بانوان با اندازه‌های سیستم مولر مقایسه گردید. باتوجه به یافته‌ها، در بسیاری از پارامترها تفاوت چشمگیری میان ابعاد اندامی ایرانیان و اندازه‌های ذکرشده در سیستم مولر وجود داشت، در نتیجه مجموعه‌ای از اعداد جدید براساس اطلاعات آنتروپومتری بانوان ایرانی در نظام سایزبندی جایگزین گردید.
کلیدواژه‌ها
موضوعات
عنوان مقاله [English]
Modification of Iranian women's clothing sizing system based on anthropometric studies
نویسندگان [English]
- parastoo zamani 1
- Khashayar Hojati Emami 2
- Faride Hajiani 3
1 Phd student, Faculty of Art, Alzahra university,Tehran,Iran
2 Assistant Professor, Industrial Design Department, Faculty of Applied Arts, University of Art, Tehran, Iran.
3 Assistant Professor, Fabric Design Department, Faculty of Applied Arts, University of Art,, Tehran,, Iran.
چکیده [English]
As a work of culture and art, cloth ought to be proportionate to the human body. A pattern that corresponds to the anatomical features of the inhabitants of a particular region can increase the output of regional apparel. In this discipline, patternmaking according to the body size of individuals is one of the most crucial parameters. However, sizing may not always be appropriate for all members of the community, as certain individuals' physiques do not conform to global standards. Significant advancements in online purchasing and women's apparel production have increased the significance of gathering precise data to determine appropriate sizes for individuals with varying anthropometric characteristics. Additionally, the absence of a measurement table for ready-to-wear garments is problematic. Size 38 of one brand may occasionally correspond to size 40 of another brand for identical textiles and apparel styles. Nevertheless, pattern-making techniques in numerous non-Western nations, such as Iran, primarily borrow from European and American approaches, oblivious to the variations in physical dimensions among these cultures. The objective of this research is to examine the variations in conventional clothing sizing methods and ascertain the degree to which anthropometric data acquisition contributes to the enhancement of a sizing method. The body dimensions of 1290 women, aged 20-44, were assessed using a random sample. These women were categorized into sizes 32 to 58. A comparison was made between the classified measurements and those of the Müller system. There existed a substantial disparity in several parameters between the limb measurements of Iranian women and those recorded in the Müller system. A set of new measurements was subsequently derived from anthropometric data pertaining to the physique of an average Iranian woman. Our results facilitate the development of a sizing system that is in accordance with the physique of an Iranian woman and provide direction for future researchers who wish to expand the sizing system. Furthermore, our research provides valuable insights to the global and domestic apparel industries. The fundamental inquiry lies in determining how to anticipate the intended outcome through the utilization of data pertaining to individuals with varying anthropometric characteristics. The primary objective of this research endeavor is to determine the degree to which the acquisition of anthropometric information from individuals can contribute to the enhancement of garment industry sizing procedures. This research is applied in that it was conducted through field research, library resource reviews, and the collection and analysis of measured data; thus, it is of a mixed quantitative and qualitative nature.
کلیدواژه‌ها [English]
- Anthropometry
- Organology
- Iranian Organ
- Mü
- ller
- Iranian women Apparel Sizing
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